Mags Roche

When Michel Roux passed away in 2020, it marked more than the loss of a culinary icon for TU Dublin graduate Maggie Roche — it became a turning point. Having trained at the three Michelin-starred Waterside Inn under Michel Roux Jr. and Alain Roux, Maggie carried with her not just technical precision, but a deep understanding of mentorship, discipline and quiet leadership

In the midst of uncertainty, she chose to plant her own seed — opening Little Acorn in Baltinglass as a tribute to the belief that “mighty oaks from little acorns grow.” Today, as café owner and Resident Chef at Ballybeg House, Maggie leads with the same generosity and standards that once shaped her.

Chopping

 

“Each stage of my journey — from student to Michelin kitchens, from employee to leader, and ultimately to business owner — has built the foundation for the chef and entrepreneur I am today.”

My journey to opening The Little Acorn began even before my BA in Culinary Arts. I first completed a two-year Professional Cookery programme, which was where my love for food truly began. The course was highly practical, with two work placements, and it was through the lecturers and peers I met there that I found the confidence to continue into the Culinary Arts degree.

I graduated in September 2010 with the award for Overall Student of the Year and Best in Hot Kitchen Major. During my time in college I also worked part-time in The Merrion Hotel, which gave me my first experience of the standards required in a professional kitchen.

A defining moment came when I joined The Waterside Inn, a three Michelin-star restaurant, where I spent almost three years working under Michel Roux Jr. and Alain Roux. The discipline, precision and pursuit of excellence required at that level fundamentally shaped my standards as a chef.

Afterwards I worked as a private chef in the South of France and later moved to Australia, working with a fine dining catering company in Darling Harbour, Sydney. Those roles broadened my perspective and exposed me to different cultures and styles of hospitality.

Returning to Ireland, I joined Marlfield House as Sous Chef and later opened The Duck Bistro as Head Chef. At 26, I became Head Chef at Hugo’s, managing a large team in one of Dublin’s busiest restaurants. During my time there we received outstanding reviews and were listed among Ireland’s Best Restaurants in 2017, the same year I received Chef of the Year from the McKennas’ Guides.

I later worked in Wild Honey Inn and The Strawberry Tree at BrookLodge & Macreddin Village, experiences that deepened my appreciation for locality, seasonality and simplicity.

In October 2020, I opened Little Acorn Café in Baltinglass. In 2022, I was invited to open a restaurant at Ballybeg House and later became Resident Chef overseeing wedding catering there.

Looking back, every stage — from Michelin kitchens to leadership roles — helped prepare me to create something of my own.

“Personally, TU Dublin gave me confidence. Professionally, it gave me opportunity.”

I was incredibly lucky with the people I met during my time at TU Dublin. From early on I was encouraged to enter cooking competitions and I joined the Irish Culinary Team. That experience built confidence and exposed me to a level of discipline that shaped how I approached kitchens afterwards.

One of the most impactful experiences was running our own restaurant as part of the course — planning menus, organising service, leading a team and inviting our families to dine. At the time it felt intense; looking back now, it was invaluable.

The camaraderie in the kitchens was also hugely important. The kitchen and door porters were incredibly supportive and it reinforced that hospitality is always about teamwork.

I always worked while studying, which helped me apply what I was learning in real kitchens. Working with chefs such as Ed Cooney, Gareth Mullins, Mark Staples, Alan Micks and John O’Leary had a huge impact on me, and Paul Kelly in particular remains a significant influence.

Placements were another highlight. Through TU Dublin’s industry connections I gained experience at the Ashdown Park Hotel, The Merrion Hotel and Arbutus Restaurant in Soho, London.

I genuinely would not have completed the programme without the lecturers. I struggled more with theory than practical work, and their patience and encouragement made a real difference. Jim Rock encouraged me to pursue Culinary Arts in the first place, Tony Campbell and James Carberry helped open opportunities, and Norma Kelly guided me through my thesis with enormous patience.

Most importantly, TU Dublin gave me people who believed in me — often before I believed in myself.

“Opening my own café was about planting my own acorn.”

Opening The Little Acorn was deeply inspired by my time working at The Waterside Inn and under Michel Roux.

When Mr Roux passed away in 2020, it coincided with a difficult time in the industry. His death made me reflect on legacy, mentorship and the responsibility chefs carry.

I often think of the saying “Mighty oaks from little acorns grow.” Mr Roux nurtured so many young chefs — we were his “little acorns.”

Opening my own café was about creating something built on those values: hard work, consistency, hospitality and kindness. I wanted to build something that could grow steadily and nurture the next generation of young chefs.

“I quickly realised that running a business is much more than producing great food.”

In the beginning I focused almost entirely on the food because that was my comfort zone. What I hadn’t fully grasped was how many other skills were required to run a business.

Suddenly it was just me — long days, a small team, and full responsibility. I had to learn administration, financial management and communication quickly.

At first I tried to do everything myself and struggled to delegate. Eventually I realised leadership isn’t about control — it’s about building trust.

I was lucky to have support from friends and colleagues, and I learned a lot through experience — often by getting things wrong first.

“There really is no typical day.”

Running both the café and Ballybeg House means my days are varied and fast-paced.

I might start the day organising a wedding and briefing the team, then move to the café floor speaking with customers or testing new menu ideas. Every few weeks I also do a cooking slot on RTÉ.

I’m constantly looking at ways to improve the business — upgrading equipment, managing costs, supporting the team and overseeing social media.

No matter what the day brings, it’s always hands-on.

“There is a huge responsibility to both my staff and my customers.”

Leading a team and maintaining the best possible customer experience are the biggest challenges.

Rising costs — from ingredients to wages — have also created pressure, especially when you are committed to delivering quality at good value.

But I see challenges as opportunities to improve and strengthen both the business and my leadership.

“Watching my team grow and gain confidence is one of the most fulfilling parts of running the café.”

Seeing someone develop in their role and grow in confidence is incredibly rewarding. Knowing I’ve had a positive influence on their progress makes all the hard work worthwhile.

“I’ve always believed that happiness in the kitchen translates to better food and service.”

I love the people — both my team and our customers.

I enjoy the variety, the creative freedom and the opportunity to give others a chance in the industry. I especially love when customers tell me how much they enjoy the food and look forward to visiting Little Acorn.

It’s demanding and sometimes chaotic, but that’s part of the thrill.

“Every day is a school day.”

We’ve grown enormously since opening the café and there is still plenty more to do.

One project I’m particularly excited about is a new concept called Little Acorn To Go, which will offer another way for our local community to enjoy our food.

“For me, the ultimate meal isn’t just about the food — it’s about the company.”

I would choose bacon and cabbage with my dad. He passed away four years ago, but sharing his favourite meal with him remains one of my most treasured memories.

It’s a dish that represents comfort, family and connection.

“It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done — but also one of the most rewarding.”

Running your own business requires resilience, discipline and a strong support network.

Seek guidance from people in the industry, travel for inspiration and find your own style. There will be challenges and moments of doubt, but persistence and positivity make all the difference.